March 18, 2024
Fashion may seem trivial to the untrained observer, but understanding trends, staple pieces and silhouettes from the various eras of history can provide valuable insight into the lived experiences of people during the time period. Our resident 18th-century clothing experts at First State Heritage Park in Dover bring the past to life every day for visitors – this blog covers just ONE example from their vast collection!
Keep reading to join us on a historical fashion journey to the 1770s – an era that prioritized layers, adjustability, practicality and modesty, while still finding room for style.
Every woman in the 1770s, regardless of class, started her day by slipping into a simple shift. Known for its antibacterial properties and excellent sweat-wicking abilities, the shift was made from linen and was the workhorse of the wardrobe. It absorbed sweat and oils, protecting the more expensive outer layers from becoming soiled. These shifts were the most frequently laundered garments, with women owning an average of 3-5 shifts to ensure they always had a clean one on hand. They’re the original “wash and wear” garment!
Before adding more layers, 1770s women would put on their stockings and shoes. Stockings were knitted from cotton or wool and had a seam running up the back. Higher-quality pairs would embellish or hide this seam. Stockings were secured at the knee with ribbon or woven tape garters as elastic hadn’t yet been invented. Shoes were made of leather and secured with a buckle or ribbon. Most women went through about three pairs a year. Putting on these items early in the dressing process allowed for easier access and adjustment before the bulkier layers were added.
Next came the stays, the era’s version of a corset. Contrary to popular belief, stays were not designed for waist reduction but to support the bust and give the fashionable conical silhouette of the era. They were laced in the front or back (sometimes both!) and were a key reason that getting dressed was such a lengthy process. But hey, who doesn’t appreciate a little support in all the right places?
Underneath the gown, women wore skirts tied at the front and back, called petticoats. Typically, two or more petticoats were worn to achieve the desired silhouette, and in colder months, a quilted petticoat provided extra warmth. Layering:, not just a modern fashion hack!
One of the most practical elements of 1770s attire were pockets. Essentially, these bags on strings – entirely unattached to a garment – tied around the waist and were hidden beneath the outer petticoat. Pockets could be large enough to hold a variety of items, even a chicken! They were accessed through slits in the outer petticoat, which was the final layer before the gown. Imagine the possibilities if modern women’s garments had functional pockets!
The English gown was the centerpiece of the outfit, known for its back pleats that hugged the silhouette. It was often made of printed cotton, a fabric imported from India that was affordable for the middle class but still a sign of status compared to the linen and wool used by lower classes. The gown was pinned into place with long straight pins and often featured a modesty scarf to cover the chest and protect the skin from the sun.
Accessories like aprons, caps, and capes were both practical and fashionable. Aprons protected the gown during daily chores. Because hair was not washed frequently, caps were essential for maintaining cleanliness. Capes, with their dramatic flair and added warmth, were a stylish accessory. They could be made from a variety of materials, including wool or silk, and were often adorned with intricate embroidery. (Bring back capes! Bring back capes!)
Finally, jewelry was a way for middle-class women to display their wealth and taste. Ear piercing was common, and women adorned themselves with pearls, small gemstones, and precious metals. A ribbon choker was even a fashionable addition that drew attention to the wearer’s neckline – a historical slay if we ever saw one!
A key aspect of 1770s fashion was its adaptability. Women’s clothing lacked buttons, allowing for adjustments to accommodate weight fluctuations, including pregnancy. This practical approach meant that a woman could gain or lose up to 40 pounds without needing an entirely new wardrobe (we’re jealous). Outer clothes were not laundered often; visible dirt was spot treated, with only a thorough wash once or twice per year during “the grand wash,” (not so jealous.)
Overall, dressing up as a middle-class woman in the 1770s was a complex process involving (lots of) layers, practicality, and a touch of elegance. We hope this historic fashion exploration has given you a deeper appreciation for 1770s fashion and the ingenuity of women in the past.
Leave a comment under our post and let us know if you’d like to see more of this series!
Want to see the layering process in action? Check out our newest video on Instagram and Facebook for a GRWM style reel or YouTube if you prefer the classic horizontal view. Eager to experience more of the 18th century? Visit First State Heritage Park for a chance to step back in time and see history up close! The park, encompassing locations like The Old State House and The John Bell House, offers guided tours, living history demonstrations, and seasonal events that highlight Delaware’s colonial era. For more information visit here.
A special shoutout to the Interpretive team at First State Heritage Park for their incredible insights on historical fashion, helping us weave the rich tapestry of this series. Their dedication brings the past to vibrant life, offering us a glimpse into the world of colonial Delawareans.